Thoughts on Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2024 menswear Collection
Normally, I don’t write about fashion because, honestly, who has the time? Fashion is the fastest-revolving art form on the planet—by the time we’re fangirling one trend, another has already moved in. Plus, I’m in Texas; my Paris Fashion Week experience comes via YouTube.
But Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2024 menswear fashion show deserves to be talked about. For two decades, Pharrell Williams has dipped his manicured toes in several designer collaborations and high-fashion pools—nothing new there. But with less than a year under his belt as a creative director of a major fashion house, Pharrell Williams is already bringing exciting modes and meaningful cultural nods to Paris Fashion Week. If this is the caliber of creativity and polish we can expect from Pharrell as a creative director, let us all rejoice with a robust YEE-HAW. Because that show was fucking GREAT.
Set against the backdrop of an American western frontier, LV is giving “cowboys and Indians” in a modern-day world. Though positioned as menswear, I found the fashion to be delightfully gender-fluid (though an argument could be made that most modern Western wear is genderless). Comprised of 81 looks, this collection incorporated an array of early Americana and Native American influences, giving nods to workwear and traditional masculinity in a way that felt soft, playful, but more importantly, soulful. For me, this show played with Western American identity, allowing us to see our fashion roots reimagined through a funky modern lens.
I know LV is all about the bags, but I’m here to talk about the clothes. My favorite looks? Hard to say—I loved everything. Loved that dark camel double-breasted suit with the black western bow tie. Loved that all-denim getup with the ruffles, brown leather belt, and bolo tie. (I’m Texan; I was raised on head-to-toe denim. The term “Canadian tuxedo” can kiss my ass. For me, it’s a Southern thing.) Loved that red and blue plaid coat with the cowboy graphic at the bottom. Loved ALL the wool coats—I would shovel horse shit for a year to own that oversized buffalo plaid peacoat. But my lust-fueled heart truly lept for every flared trouser that came down that runway. The cut of those pants—Jesus Christ, send me straight to 1970s frontier heaven.
Some looks were questionable. I could have done without some of those puffy jackets. That plain-Jane white one—what story was that telling? That bright orange vest felt out of place—I get that we’re playing with American workwear, but that orange traffic cone color felt too on the nose. Wasn’t a fan of that black and white quilted bomber jacket. But most of the more quirky looks were askew in way that felt necessary, even appreciated—they incorporated humor and a sense of fun that brings much-needed joy to winter collections, let alone menswear. Shoutout to that sequined buffalo plaid pajama set. Shoutout to that red leather NASCAR-esk ensemble with the patches and lasso. Shoutout to those side-by-side tracksuits that were so wrong they were right. Shoutout to fringe any way you can get it.
Clothes aside, what truly stood out about this collection—this show—was its collaborative qualities, from the accessories to the soundtrack. By working with Native American artists from Dakota and Lakota nations, LV not only gave us an immersive experience but reinforced it with a cultural authenticity that was both acknowledging and beautiful. Masculine and feminine. Warm-blooded and elegant. I was especially drawn in by the show’s soundtrack—a musical fusion of modern soul and Native American songscapes. I assume the vast majority of these immersive elements owe their thanks to the collaborators, including creative director Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, Lakota “Hokie” Clairmont, and performers from Native Voices of Resistance. If you’re not going to go to a Louis Vuitton show for the fashion, at least go for the music now that Pharrell is in the driver’s seat.
I don’t know how much my Texas upbringing influenced my love for this show. Do other people get as excited as me for luxury frontier wear? Do others want to see more embroidered chaps and cowboy boots at Paris Fashion Week? Maybe, maybe not. All I know is it’s been a long time since I’ve watched a menswear show all the way through without getting bored. Watching this show, I was so far from bored I forgot bored was even a thing. Thank you, fashion world. Thank you, Pharrell. Thank you, America.
